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Turn Your Skincare Inside Out

“It’s not inside, it’s on top.”
That was the tag line for Cremora Coffee Creamer back in the 1980s. When someone sent me a recording of the Cremora TV advert in a moment of nostalgia, it occurred to me that we sometimes treat our skincare the same way:“
“Don’t worry about inside. Just put things on top.”

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The Full Scoop

The trouble with this approach is that your skin’s outer layer is designed as a very sophisticated barrier to keep things out, whereas its inner layers are crucial and effective pathways for getting nutrients into all parts of your skin. Put another way, “what you put inside will end up on top. If you are sleep-deprived, dehydrated - or have just started smoking again - the effects may start inside your body, but that message is very quickly communicated to the outside world through your skin in the form of fine lines and wrinkles. Luckily this also works in reverse, too; if you’re eating well and sleeping properly, your complexion will begin to reap the rewards.

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The Nutricosmetics industry has flooded the market with everything from preparations, to pills, to powders, to smoothies to profit from this “inside out” approach. But it can be overwhelming to try to pick the ones that are best suited to your skin’s needs. Luckily, if you understand a little bit about how each ingredient works - and the symptoms it addresses - it becomes easy to find the one(s) that will work for your skin. Below are a list essential inputs for any healthy skin. Do you see any that you might need more of?

Vitamin A
Both the upper and lower layers of skin need vitamin A. It seems to prevent sun damage by interrupting the process that breaks down collagen. It also helps oil glands around your hair follicles work and speeds up the healing process.

Niacin (aka Vitamin B3)
The Hooch to Omega 3’s Turner. As one half of the dynamic duo, Niacin also helps to keep your skin soft and radiant. It’s essential for cell metabolism, cholesterol synthesis (good cholesterol), and has been shown in some studies to relieve arthritic pain.

Pantothenic Acid (aka Vitamin B5)
The zen guru of the vitamin world. Pantothenic acid supports new skin cell growth and wound healing. It is also called the anti-stress vitamin as it helps to regulate the production of cortisol, your stress hormone.

Biotin (aka Vitamin B7)
Biotin helps to protect your skin cells from moisture loss, and also improves the absorption rate of fatty acids. If you suffer from dandruff, hair loss, brittle nails, or inflammation, it may be that you need to boost your Biotin.

Vitamin C
Think "C" for collagen: Vitamin C helps the collagen protein to hold its shape, so that it can continue to provide its important structural support to your skin. If you bruise easily and experience bleeding gums, it could be that you need more Vitamin C.

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Vitamin D (see also Calcitriol)
Vitamin D deficiencies are not often tested for, and yet it is becoming increasingly common amongst western urbanites. This is a highly problematic due to the fact that vitamin D is crucial for skin protection, and aids in skin cell growth, and repair.

Vitamin E
Vitamin E helps support the immune system, and cell function in your skin. Unfortunately, as you age, or spend more time in the sun, it becomes harder to maintain healthy levels of this vitamin. If you lead an active outdoor lifestyle, Vitamin E may be a supplement that will become increasingly important.

Iron
An iron deficiency is known to exacerbate eczema or psoriasis and can also present as pallor or perpetual weariness. Pregnancy supplements are great solutions to this problem, even for women who aren’t pregnant.

Omega Fats
Omega fats are a little like leather food for your favourite chesterfield couch. Without them, your skin becomes dull and will crack more easily. With them, your skin remains soft, supple, and carries that healthy radiant glow that we all crave. The tricky thing to bear in mind is that your body doesn’t actually make omega-3 fatty acids, but still really needs them in order to build cell walls. There is also growing evidence that they retard the growth and spread of skin cancer.

Probiotics
You can plan the perfect diet, but if your gut can’t absorb nutrients, it does you no good. Probiotic supplements are usually made up of a few microbes that aid the absorption of nutrients during digestion. They also help in the management of acne, eczema, or rosacea.

Protein
Proteins are made of long chains of amino acids. Your body breaks down the proteins you ingest and cuts them into useful amino acids, which then help slough off old skin, act as antioxidants, and protect against UV damage.

Zinc
Zinc boosts your immune functions and may help you to control your body’s inflammatory response. It also controls the amount of oil that your skin produces, which in turn reduces the occurrence of blocked pours.

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The trouble with this approach is that your skin’s outer layer is designed as a very sophisticated barrier to keep things out, whereas its inner layers are crucial and effective pathways for getting nutrients into all parts of your skin. Put another way, “what you put inside will end up on top. If you are sleep-deprived, dehydrated - or have just started smoking again - the effects may start inside your body, but that message is very quickly communicated to the outside world through your skin in the form of fine lines and wrinkles. Luckily this also works in reverse, too; if you’re eating well and sleeping properly, your complexion will begin to reap the rewards.

What are the best times to take my supplements?

As we suggested earlier, when talking about probiotics, your body’s absorption rate of nutrients is of paramount importance. By pairing certain nutrient groups together, you can actually boost that absorption rate, maximising their benefit to your skin! When you take your supplements can also significantly affect the way in which your body absorbs and utilises the nutrients.

Chronic Medication

Sometimes medication that we are already taking for chronic conditions like epilepsy can interfere with our body’s ability to absorb nutrients. The same can be said for antacids, anti-inflammatory drugs, and laxatives.
Traditional blood thinners like warfarin can be adversely affected even by small amounts of Vitamin K, so avoid taking them with multivitamins. Taking blood thinners alongside doses of more than 1000 mg of vitamin E per day can also increase your risk of bleeding. Finally, if you take thyroid medication, taking calcium, magnesium, or iron within 4 hours can reduce its efficacy. Ask your doctor about how best to time it.

Not on an Empty Stomach?

Fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E and K) and omega-3s are better absorbed when taken with a meal that contains fat. You don’t need a lot of fat, though. Plant-based fats, like those found in nuts and avocados, will do just fine.
Probiotics, Vitamin B12 and Iron, on the other hand, are best taken on an empty stomach. For the best absorption rate, team up your iron supplement with a dose of Vitamin C (in say, a glass of orange juice). But be sure to avoid taking iron supplements alongside calcium boosters, as they mutually reduce each other’s ability to be absorbed. B-complex vitamins should be taken in the early morning, ideally with your breakfast, as they help to produce energy from food; taking them later in the day can reduce your quality of sleep.

Take it slow after your cup of Joe

If you drink coffee or tea, the tannins and caffeine in these drinks can affect the absorption of many vitamins and minerals (iron, in particular).
Caffeine also increases urination, which can decrease the concentration of water-soluble vitamins (B-complex and C). For this reason, it’s always best to delay taking these supplements for at least an hour after drinking any caffeine. It’s interesting to note that caffeine-free herbal teas have actually been shown to increase the rate of absorption of certain nutrients.

A river runs through it

Water-soluble vitamins can be removed through urination, and your body is unable to store them, so you need to take these every day. Some of the more common water-soluble vitamins include: Vitamin C, thiamin (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin (B3), pantothenic acid (B5), pyridoxine (B6), biotin (B7), folic acid (B9), and cobalamin (B12). Vitamin B12 is always absorbed better with a meal, but the rest can be taken with or without food. There is one caveat though: Vitamin C and Vitamin B12 should always be taken separately, as Vitamin C can prevent your body from using B12. Leave a two-hour gap between the two doses.

Mineral Supplements

Large doses of minerals can compete with each other to be absorbed, so don’t use calcium, zinc, or magnesium supplements at the same time. These three minerals are also easier on your stomach when taken with a meal. It’s also never a good idea to combine a multi-vitamin mineral supplement with an antioxidant supplement like beta-carotene or lycopene.

Recommended Supplements

While there are many different companies offering an array of supplements to choose from, I’ve predominantly chosen to work with Metagenics products as they adhere to a strict level quality control protocols that are not necessarily matched across the industry.

If you don’t know where to start, perhaps try one of my four top picks for overall skin health:

1. Metagenics Phytomulti (with or without Iron) - packed full with all the vitamins, minerals and antioxidants for skin health.
2. Metagenics OmegaGenics® EPA-DHA 720 derived from cold water Fish (Algae derived version is also available)
3. Peptiplus Pure Granulated Collagen
4. Metagenics UltraFlora® Balance or Amipro Daily Flora

Link: https://alphenhealth.metagenics.co.za/

Contributors

 
Doctor Bianca

Doctor Bianca

Dr Bianca Le Feuvre is a medical doctor with a special interest in aesthetic medicine.